By Alex Harrington
Corsica, known as the Isle of Beauty, is a land of contrasts—rugged mountains, lush forests, and dramatic coastlines. As The Albatross sailed into the Bay of Calvi, we were greeted by the sight of the ancient citadel perched high on the cliffs, a silent sentinel overlooking the azure waters. This island, steeped in history and natural beauty, promised an adventure that would blend hiking with a deep dive into its storied past.
Anchoring in Calvi
We anchored The Albatross in the protected waters of Calvi, a town rich with history and charm. The early morning sun cast a golden glow over the citadel’s stone walls, and the scent of pine and wildflowers drifted on the breeze. After securing the boat and ensuring everything was shipshape, we set off on our first adventure—hiking the rugged trails of Corsica.
Hiking the Sentier des Douaniers
Our chosen path was the Sentier des Douaniers, or Customs Officers’ Path, a trail that winds along the northern coast from Calvi to the remote village of Galéria. The trail offered spectacular views of the Mediterranean, with every twist and turn revealing a new vista more breathtaking than the last.
The hike was challenging, with rocky paths and steep ascents that tested our endurance and agility. But the rewards were worth every drop of sweat. The wild maquis, a dense shrubland unique to Corsica, surrounded us, filling the air with the fragrant scent of herbs and flowers. Liz, always in her element on a trail, led the way with her usual enthusiasm while Sam and I followed, taking in the rugged beauty that defined Corsica.
Historical Exploration: The Citadel of Calvi
Returning to Calvi after our invigorating hike, we turned our attention to the historic citadel. Built in the 15th century, the citadel stands as a testament to the resilience and fortitude of Corsica. It has witnessed countless battles and sieges, its walls echoing the island’s tumultuous history. As we walked through its ancient gates, the cobbled streets and narrow alleys transported us back in time.
The citadel offered stunning views of the surrounding bay and mountains, and we took our time exploring its ramparts, bastions, and hidden corners. Plaques and signs detailed the citadel’s history, from its role in defending against pirate raids in the 16th century to its strategic importance as a Genoese stronghold during the Napoleonic Wars. The sense of history was palpable, each stone telling a story of resilience and fortitude.
A Visit to Pascal Paoli’s Legacy
A trip to Corsica would only be complete with paying homage to Pascal Paoli, the revered leader who fought for Corsican independence in the 18th century. We visited his birthplace in Morosaglia, a village in the mountains, where a small museum dedicated to his life and legacy provided fascinating insights into Corsica’s struggle for autonomy.
Liz, our history enthusiast, was particularly moved by Paoli’s story—his vision for a free Corsica and his efforts to establish democratic principles, such as a constitution and a representative government, long before they became widespread in Europe. The museum’s exhibits, including letters, personal belongings, and historical documents, painted a vivid picture of a man deeply committed to his people and their freedom.
Sailing the Rugged Coastline
We set sail aboard The Albatross, our spirits high, along Corsica’s rugged western coastline, navigating between dramatic cliffs and hidden coves. The wind filled our sails as we cruised past the Scandola Nature Reserve, a UNESCO World Heritage site renowned for its stunning red rock formations and crystal-clear waters, a sight that inspired awe in us.
The reserve, accessible only by sea, offered a pristine view of Corsica’s untamed beauty. We anchored in a secluded cove and snorkeled in the clear, cool waters, marveling at the underwater world teeming with life. The vibrant coral, in red, orange, and purple hues, and the colorful fish, darting in and out of the coral reefs, added a magical touch to our Corsican adventure.
Reflections on Corsica’s Charm
As the sun set over the horizon, painting the sky with hues of orange and pink, we gathered on the deck of The Albatross to reflect on our journey. Corsica had revealed itself as an island of rugged charm and rich history, where every trail and every stone seemed to whisper tales of the past.
The blend of hiking and historical exploration gave us a deeper appreciation of the island’s unique character. From its landscapes’ wild beauty to its people’s enduring legacy, Corsica has captivated our hearts and minds.
— Alex Harrington
Leaving Corsica behind, we sailed onward, our spirits invigorated by the island’s rugged charm and historical depth. The memories of our hikes, the stories of the citadel, and Pascal Paoli’s legacy would sail with us, enriching our journey across the Mediterranean. Here’s to the adventure that lies ahead and the histories yet to be uncovered.